NASSIM ASSEFI

 

Dear Readers,

I've been a reluctant blogger until now, but decided to share with you the personal process of launching a novel into the world plus my move to Istanbul. I plan to update the blog every three months or so, or as exciting events happen.

Don't hesitate to contact me with your comments and questions.

Yours, Nassim

 

Merhaba. I've been a bad blogger. Writing my second novel, trying to learn Turkish, and various travels have not left me much space for more casual musings here. I hope to blog more in 2009. In the meanwhile, just a quick note to say that I love living in Istanbul, despite the occasional US Embassy shoot-outs, the neighborhood bombs, tear gas to demonstrators, and tumultuous political situation. 

Haydi, görüşürüz, Nassim 

 

Nassim’s Istanbul Recommendations

Beşiktaş, İstanbul, March 21, 2008
Miguel and I have been living in Istanbul exactly 4 months as of today. Much of my time has been spent gazing out my living room window at the Sea of Marmara as I try to write my second novel, set in Kabul in November of 2006. Some days, my headspace feels more in Afghanistan than in Turkey. In my dream life, though, the Turkish permeates through and reminds me that the hours I’ve spent trying to learn this agglutinative Ural-Altaic language have not been wasted. Most days, I leave my home without my Turkish-English dictionary, which was definitely not the case a couple months ago. Instead of a conventional blog entry on this Persian New Year (first day of spring), I’ve decided to share with you my recommendations for Istanbul—both as an aide to the many friends and friends of friends who are visiting and to remind me that I have in fact engaged with this marvelous city, between long hours at the computer.

Sultanahmet:
The first time I visited Istanbul in 2004, I hardly left Sultanahmet, the most historic part of the city, where the majority of tourist attractions and hotels are located. You could easily spend a week here visiting Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace (yes to the Harem visit, yes to the audio tour), the Archaeology Museum, the Basilica Cistern, Süleymaniye Camii, Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, the Archaeology Museum, Istanbul University, and Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar). All are highly recommended and detailed in most guidebooks. The Lonely Planet describes a historic walk of lesser-known sights through this neighborhood that I recommend.

Hotel recommendations in Sultanahmet:
My favorite is a boutique hotel called Empress Zoe owned by some nice American sisters who have lived abroad for many years. Akbiyik Cad. Adliye Sok. No:10 Tel: 90 (212) 518 25 04 - 518 43 60 E-mail: info@emzoe.com / emzoe@superonline.com. Rooms can be monkishly simple (they have some budget options) to elaborate suites. Old world feel with many artistic touches. Delicious breakfast.

A more moderately priced option is Hotel Alaturka across from Empress Zoe. Akbiyik Caddesi No. 5. phone is 90-212-458-7900. Website is www.hotelalaturka.com. For reservations, email: reservation@hotelalaturka.com. The truth is, there are a bunch of budget to moderately priced hotels in the area. You can try the Side too (across from the 4 Seasons).

For super fancy, you can try the Four Seasons in Sultanahmet (there’s a new one in my neighborhood on the Bosphorous), which was once a prison.

Of note, you can bargain for most things in Turkey save at a fancy mall. You can often negotiate your hotel price if you’re visiting in off-season. Most hotels include breakfast. Currently, the cheap high season hotel rate is around 50-60 Euros.

Great Views:
Istanbul is the city of views. Below I detail some great places to visit on a nice day to get a sense of the immensity and beauty of this city. Most places have a teahouse or restaurant to let you linger even longer. I always like to get the big picture of a place I’m visiting and these places I list below will help you do this.
By the way, if you’re going to take public transportation, it’s worthwhile to buy an Akbil (an automated credit card system for all public transport. You pay a deposit and will get your money back when you turn it back in.)

European side:
-Pierre Loti Café in Eyüp. Touristy but gives the view of the city from the Golden Horn. Also, you can ride a ‘chairlift’ or teleferique up to the top using public transport token/Akbil or better yet, walk up through the historic cemetery after visiting the Eyup mosque.
-Gülhane Park near Topkapı. Both of the above are inexpensive tea houses.
-Lebe Derya restaurant/bar/café in Tunel. Chichi, moderately expensive, great views, see and be seen. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 115/7: phone 0212-293-4989.
-Galata Tower. Touristy and pricy (10 YTL admission) but wonderful views of the city from this historic Genoese tower.
-Istanbul Modern Museum Café in Tophane. Hip, pricy. The space is better than the art.
-Ortaköy: great views of the Boğaz bridge and mosque. Classic old and new in one picturesque photo. You can eat stuffed potatoes, gözleme, have tea, and/or fish here.
-Boğaziçi Univ in Bebek. Turkey’s most beautiful university campus with great views of the Bosphorous.
-Sabancı Museum in Emirgan. Sometimes has world-class exhibits (currently one on loan from the Louvre) and always has great views, especially from its Changa restaurant.

Asian side:
-Kadiköy Ferry ride to or from Beşiktaş or Karaköy.
-Çamlica Tepesi, 4km east of Uskudar (on the Asian side), tallest of twin peaks of Mount Bulgurlu, highest point in Istanbul vicinity. Has a nice small teahouse in the midst of pine grove. Views of the whole city, Bosphorous almost as far as the Black Sea, Marmara Sea and Princes’ Islands, and even the mountains behind. Good sunset spot too.
-Anadolu Kavağı (along the Bosphorous, on the Asian side, last stop on the public Bosphorous Ferry, climb to the top of the Genoese Fortress and picnic with wonderful views of the Bosphorous and Black Sea)
-Top of Büyükada at St. George’s Church. Inexpensive and delicious cantina with kebaps.

Great day trips/walking trips:
-Bosphorous cruise on public boat leaves from the Boğaz Iskelesi dock at Eminönü at 10:35a, noon, 1:35p (latter two June-October, but check ferry schedule to be sure). Return trips at 3p, 4:15p, and 5p (June-October). Less than $10 round trip. 90 minute boat ride and then 3 hours to enjoy Anadolu Kavağı views, tower, and fish restaurants. Get there early during high tourist season (about 30-45 minutes before).
-Princes’ Islands trip (adalar). These islands make for a great day trip if you want to leave the hustle and bustle of Istanbul. There are some minor historic sites to see such as old churches, synagogues, and historic houses, but mostly, they give you a chance to walk around in nature, escape cars, see some nice views of Istanbul, and get some fresh air in beauty. My favorite is Büyükada (the biggest island, closest to Bostanci); make sure to go to the top at St. George's church and have a bit to eat at the tasty, simple, and reasonably priced cantina. Many boats leave each day. Iskelesi (docks) are at Kabataş and Kadiköy.
-Southern Golden Horn: Edirnekapı, Fener, Balat, Eyüp. Visit the Kariye Muzesi (Chora Church; 11th-14th Century), eat a delicious Ottoman meal at next door’s Asitane Restaurant (pricey but good quality), then meander through the old streets to visit the old Greek and Jewish neighborhoods of Fener and Balat (where you can visit the Ecumenical Patriarchy/Orthodox Church, see a fabulous red brick high school, and visit St. Stephen of the Bulgars cast-iron church floated down the Danube and assembled in Istanbul). You can catch the bus to Edirnekapı from Taksim or Eminönü.
-Full day walk and stop: Sultanahmet to Sirkeci (the train station for the old Orient Express) to Yeni Cami to Spice Bazar (Mısır Çarşısı) and then walk up across Galata Bridge, stopping for a balık ekmek (fish sandwich usually of mackerel) or çay (tea) and then to Güllüöğlü (best baklava) in Karaköy, up the streets of Tünel to Galata Tower, walking up Galipdede to Istiklal, ending at Taksim Square. Istiklal Caddesi is the heart of modern Istanbul. It’s crowded, bustling, full of shops, eateries, and interesting characters, plus some nice churches and consulates. Nevizade Sokak off of Istiklal is touristy, but a fun place to try mezes and fish. Most of the city’s best bars and nightclubs are here.
-Lonely Planet’s walk through Sultanahmet (p 133 of the 2007 guide).

-For a mellow, artsy Istanbul neighborhood, check out Kuzkuncuk. You can take the boat to Üsküdar and then walk along the Bosphorous road to the left (North, or toward the Bosphorous bridge) for about 15 minutes. Then take a right when you see the Kuzkuncuk bus stop and there will be a nice, long street of galleries, eateries, and funky old houses.

Running/Long Uninterrupted walks:
-For some walking/running in fresh air with some nice views, run along Kennedy Caddesi in Sultanahmet or in Yıldız Parkı (with its historic restaurants and cafes) between Beşiktaş and Ortaköy. It’s not that easy to run along the Bosphorous without dodging fishermen, dogs, weaving through streets, and sidewalks, however.
-Cadde Bostan on the Asian side has 6km along the water just for runners, walkers, and bikers.
-Check out my friend John’s site for Istanbul runners: http://www.runningistanbul.blogspot.com/ and the recent article about his/our group in the Turkish Daily News.
-You can try to connect with Adım Adım (Step by Step), a running club in Istanbul that raises money for charity, on weekend mornings at Belgrade Forest (a bit far north of the city, but good for those determined to run in the woods with other serious runners).

Hamams:
Most Westerners love the hamam (public bath) experience, recalling exotic Orientalist paintings and the visit to the harem at Topkapı or Dolmabahçe Palace. The truth is, most Turks don’t understand this Western fascination with the hamam, and wouldn’t consider visiting one. The best known hamams are Cağaloğlu and Çemberlitaş in Sultanahmet (slightly recommend former over latter). They are beautiful, interesting, and pricey, though I’ve heard they rush you through in peak tourist season. However, I’ve personally gotten a skin infection from a hamam and would recommend going with your own kese (scrubbing cloth $2-$3, white or black usually) and peştamal (light towel to wrap around yourself and lie upon) and slippers. Wear your underwear; this is the convention. Don’t walk around barefoot. My favorite olive oil laurel soap is made by Müftüoğlu is called Daphne (3 YTL), and can be bought in most apothecaries/gourmet tea/spice stores. You may have a more authentic experience going to a small-town, local hamam (Bursa’s is famous and has a good reputation). Or, you may want to spend around 100 YTL to go to a hamam-spa, where you’re sure to have a sanitary experience.  I highly recommend the Life-Co Spa near Etiler, which has a beautiful traditional hamam plus many other spa amenities like a rain shower and high-tech sauna that heats you up gently. It's the perfect place to go if you feel like pampering yourself and getting a sense of the authentic Turkish hamam experience. Don't be put off by the mall and sports club exterior.

Food:
I love Turkish food. Turkey has a great variety of rich ingredients, the market experience is always interesting, and street foods are tasty, cheap, and fulfilling. We’ve had less spectacular experiences at the restaurants around town, but do have some favorites. In general, Sultanahmet is not the place to eat. The Asian side has better restaurants (especially Kadiköy), but around Istiklal is also good.

Restaurants:
1. Çiya in Kadiköy (fabulous website with photos; check it out!) Don’t miss these 3 restaurants (one is predominantly kebap, the other is salad bar, and the 3rd is a mixture; all are great and offer the same menu, but best to go see the food and pick out what looks most appetizing). I’d recommend eating here every night! It’s reasonably priced, by far the most interesting and authentic Turkish menu I’ve seen (emphasis is on South East Anatolia), service is good, smoke-free rooms are available, and you will not be disappointed. It’s worth taking the boat across to Kadiköy, which has wonderful shops and places to eat, a hip young urban beat where most tourists don’t go. No alcohol is served here as this is a family restaurant. It’s a good place for kids too. Don’t forget to try the wacky desserts—candied eggplant, walnuts, tomatoes, pumpkin! A rich culinary experience. It’s hard to describe where it is, but just go to Kadiköy and ask. Also check out next-door neighbor of Brezilye for great dried fruits and nuts.
2. Asitane in Edirnekapı. Fancy Ottoman food, very interesting menu, pricier than Çiya. In Kariye Oteli, 0212-635-7997.
3. Balık Ekmek (fish sandwich) around the Galata Bridge or on the lower level. Also try dürüm and/or döner in little restaurant stands.
4. Fish restaurants in Kumkapı (short cab ride from Sultanahmet). We liked Nezam’s.
5. Nevizade Sokak off of Istiklal for fish and mezes.
6. Gazetici Lokali (the Newspaper Club). On Istiklal, on right side of street not far from Taksim. Across from Megavizyon. Behind a men’s clothing shop, go up the stairs. Good local mezes, live music, smoky, but a happening place on weekends. Very authentic and not (yet)discovered by the tourists.
7. Van Kavahltı Evi breakfast place in Cihangir run by Kurds (Niazi and his wife Berivan, who's a professional dancer in a Turkish folkloric troupe). Amazing Eastern Turkey breakfasts/brunch at reasonable prices. It’s not on the main street where most of the cafes and restaurants are, but across and down the street from Komşufırın bakery (which is also delicious, by the way), which is down the hill from Carrefour.
8. Adem Baba in "downtown" Arnavutköy for Fish. Best fish we've eaten out and reasonable prices too.
9. Cezayir on Hariye St., a hip fancy restaurant in Çukurcuma area not far from Taksim.
10. Try Banyan Restaurant, 40 Abdi Piekci Caddesi, in ritzy neighborhood of Nişantaşı, which often has nice art exhibits.
11. Özsüt. A chain all over Istanbul with great desserts, including chicken breast pudding. Mado is the chain to go to for dondurma (ice cream).

12. In Beşiktaş, our favorite hangouts are Ceviz Cafe at the top of Abbas Ağa Parkı (we recommend the menemen breakfast) and Misket, a wonderful, homey organic wine house/cafe. Misket is owned by Gülşan, who comes from a wine making family in Edirne (near Greece and Bulgaria). She is married to Levent, the percussionist for the eclectic, electric jazz, alternative group Baba Zula, which makes an appearance in the wonderful documentary about the Istanbul music scene described below called Crossing the Bridge.  

13. For Georgian food, try Galata Evi, an old British jail lovingly restored by architect owners, Nadire and Mete Göktuğ. Galatakulesi Sokak. No. 15 (61), near the Galata Tower. Phone 0212-245-1861. Open every day but Mondays. Nadire plays piano and sings, Mete plays violin. They are both very outgoing and knowledgeable about Turkey. The food is not the highlight of the experience, though it's decent (we don't recommend ordering the Georgian wine on the menu, though Georgian wines are usually good).

Typical Menu with Recommended Items (see Çiya’s website for wonderful photos of these and other more exotic Turkish dishes):

Recommended Typical Soups:
· Mercimek/Lentil Soup: A delicious soup of pureed red lentils, onions, celery, carrots.
· Tavuk/Chicken Soup: Turkish chicken soup.
· Işkembe Corbası. Tripe soup.

Cold Mezes (appetizers):
· Yogurtlu Ispanak/Spinach with yogurt: Chopped cooked spinach mixed with garlic, olive oil and thick yogurt.
· Ezme: Mixed vegetables finely chopped mixed with pepper paste, tomato paste, pomegranate molasses (typically Turkish ingredient; delicious in salads and sauces) and olive oil.
· Dolma/Stuffed Grape Leaves: Grape leaves stuffed with rice, pine nuts, currants and onions.
· Midye Pilaki/Mussels with vegetables: Small mussels without shells cooked with olive oil, oregano, parsley, carrots, garlic, and onion in fresh tomato sauce. Be careful about eating this off the street as it’s not always sanitary.
· Cacik: Mix of cucumber, garlic and yogurt.
· Barbunya Pilaki/Beans with vegetables: Beans cooked with olive oil, carrots, potato, onions and garlic.
· Soslu/Eggplant with tomato sauce: Lightly fried eggplant mixed with cooked fresh tomatoes, peppers and garlic.
· Lebni: Filtered yogurt mixed with walnuts, dill, garlic and olive oil.
· Patlican Salatasi/Eggplant Salad: Smoked eggplant, green & red pepper, chopped and mixed with parsley, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil.
· Mixed Cold Appetizer Plate: Humus, eggplant salad, lebni, soslu, bulgur salad.

Hot Mezes:
· Börek/Rolled Pastry: Cigar-shaped crispy pastries stuffed with feta cheese and parsley.
· Mucver/Zucchini Pancakes: Fresh zucchini mixed with vegetables, pan-fried and served with yogurt.
· Kalamar: calamari
· Falafel: Chickpeas, parsley, mint mixture lightly fried and served with tahini.
· Ciger: Liver seasoned and lightly pan-fried.
· Imam bayaldı (Imam fainted because the food was so good): eggplant, tomatoes.

Salads:
· Kisir/Bulgur Salad: Cracked wheat, tomatoes, scallions, parsley, walnuts, mint with olive oil.
· Piyaz/White Bean Salad: Beans mixed with onions, parsley, tomatoes, peppers tossed with olive oil and lemon dressing.
· Coban Salatasi/Shepherd Salad: Fresh tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions, parsley tossed with olive oil and lemon dressing.
· Akdeniz Salatasi/Mediterranean Salad: Fresh lettuce, carrots, tomatoes and cucumbers topped with feta cheese, artichokes with olive oil and lemon dressing.

Entrees:
· Lahana Dolmasi/Cabbage leaves stuffed with lamb, rice and dill.
· Döner (may be better to eat at a street-side stand), along with dürüms and gözleme (like quesadilla stuffed with whatever you want—cheese, mushrooms, spinach, onions, etc).
· Iskender: Döner (or Adana) served over sauteed pita bread, yogurt and fresh tomato sauce.
· Köfte/Grilled home spiced ground lamb patties.
· Adana/Skewered: Grilled ground lamb mixed with red pepper, onion and skewered.
· Kuzu Şiş/ Cubes of leg of lamb marinated and grilled.
· Hunkar Begendi: Cubes of lamb braised in the oven and served over a bed of smoky eggplant puree.

Other Foods and Drinks to Try:
1. Yogurt. Turkish yogurt is fabulous. The one from Kanlıca is most famous.
2. Also, for those not afraid of guts, kokoreç (grilled intestines sandwich) is actually quite tasty, spicy, and very typical Turkish.
3. Ayran. Turkish salty yogurt drink. Best with kebap. Can be an acquired taste.
4. Rakı (Turkish grape distillate with anise). Eaten with salty foods at meze. Drink slowly, mix with water and ice.
5. Turkish wines. Skip them altogether unless you want to pay big bucks. Organic wines are best. White is better than red. Alcohol is taxed heavily in Turkey. You may want to bring a few bottles from Duty Free if you like to drink decent wine.
6. Typical winter food and drink: roasted chestnuts and sahlep (orchid-root based drink). Boza is also wintery, but I think it’s gross--fermented millet drink with roasted chickpeas and cinnamon in it.
7. Turkish kahve (coffee). Have your fortune read (tasseography). I typically drink my espresso black, but I order this one orta (medium sugar) as it’s really strong. If you can find it, especially in the SE/ Mediterranean, try  melengeç, (also known as menengiç) which is the Turkish name for the Terebinth tree (Pistacia terebinthus). The new shoots are gathered in the spring and cooked with meat. The fruits are dried, roasted, and made into a decaf kind of "coffee."
8. Turkish tea/çay. Always good. Tons of interesting herbal teas—rezene (fennel), ada (sage), kuşburnu (rosehip), ilhamur (Linden berry), and Isırganotu (nettle). Apple tea is not typically Turkish.
9. Kuruyemiş (dry fruits and nuts). Turkey is famous for great apricots (try the dark ones), figs, hazelnuts, and fruit roll ups. Try dut and kara dut (dried mulberries, white and black respectively). Try everything! You can try a lot of these goodies at most bazaars, including the Spice Bazaar (which is touristy but has good stuff). Brezilya dried fruit and nut place down the street from Çiya in Kadiköy. Great products, good prices, friendly old men staff.
10. Baklava. All different kinds. Very sweet, sinfully good. Güllüöğlü in Karaköy is thought to be the best.
11. Lokum. Turkish delight. Haci Beker is thought to be the best (on Istiklal). I personally like incir lokum best from Kadiköy (fig paste with coconut). Try rose water lokum for fun.
12. Künefe. Filo dough stuffed with cheese with sweet syrup. Both sweet and salty. I love it. Try it at a kebap place.
13. For the really adventurous, try a chicken breast pudding dessert called tavuk göğüs.

Cooking Class and Blogs:
1. istanbulfoodworkshop.com; cooking classes.
2. Cafefernando.com, a fun Turkish food blog with an emphasis on dessert.

Shopping:
-Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are fun, but touristy. You will have to bargain hard. Entering from the water side of the Spice Bazaar, the streets to the left open to Tahtakale, which is thought to be the center of the “pushcart stock market,” where exchange rates of the free market are still determined. You will see around 50 men on cell phones negotiating deals almost without paper and certainly without computers. See www.turkishdailynews.com.tr/article.php?enewsid=101638" >this article in the Turkish Daily News for more information.
My friend’s favorite jeweler in the bazaar is Ilhan 0532 313 1955. Ask him to show you his design sketchbooks, too. He has quite a lot of ideas. He’s a lovely man. If you have time, ask him about his family history in Mardin. He has some nice photos.
-The most fun shopping for me is the local market. Kadiköy has the best and biggest market on Tuesdays from morning until evening. It’s a great place to shop in general for gourmet foods and clothes. Ask around for other local markets. Sultanahmet’s is small.
-Çukurcuma is good for antiques.
-Turkey has tons of super fancy malls. Istinye Park is the newest and biggest, with a nice market area for eating and some cool architecture. It’s around the same size as Cevahir in Şişli, which is supposedly the 7th biggest mall in the world.
-My friend Kathy is a professional, personalized shopper and  leads tourists around the Grand Bazaar. She knows the vendors well and can lead you to folks who have good quality stuff and won’t cheat you. She can also bargain for you. Her specialties are scarves and carpets. You can contact her at 0536-884-9226 or bhaklava at hotmail.com, and check out her website: www.IstanbulPersonalShopper.com. She gives discounts to friends of mine.
-Look for Bekir Tezçakar in the grand bazaar on Miguel's recommendation: “Nassim and I met Bekir shortly after our arrival in Istanbul. He’s just a fleeting acquaintance but I instantly liked the guy for the following reasons. He has two coffee shops in the Grand Bazaar, is a 3rd generation owner, is relatively young (late thirties), is a civil engineer who also restores shops in the Grand Bazaar (he also restored the Nuruosmaniye Camii Gate entrance and an art gallery close to Halıcılar Cd.), and he’s got a bunch of small businesses in Bulgaria. He’s a really likable, engaging guy, full of ideas, enterprising and very committed to his family, to his country, and to both its past and its future. He struck me as a wonderful combination of old and new Turkey. He seems extremely well-connected within Grand Bazaar circles. Here is his 'teahouse': Ethem Tezçakar Kahveci (61-63). Stop by and say hello.

Music/Dance/Entertainment:
Istanbul is famous for nightlife and for tango. It’s not uncommon to see Turks going out until 4 or 5 in the morning. It’s definitely a late night city and the clubs around Istiklal are the heart of the nightlife. I tend to avoid Istiklal on weekends because it’s crazy busy. Also, the clubs and bars are incredibly smoky. That’s supposed to change in July of 2009, but I doubt it will ever be a smooth breathing experience. You can find any kind of dance along the alleys of Istiklal. Salsa is very popular. The Tunel area is fun for outdoor cafes and bars.

Galipdede street in Tunel, at the end of Istiklal, has a lot of good music shops. Acık radyo 94.9fm is our favorite, a kind of NPR.

Belly Dancing:
My belly dancing teacher, Özlem Dilsu (ozlemidilsu.com; info at ozlemidilsu.com, phone is 0532-763-3744) is an amazing performer and teacher. She infuses a lot of Turkish cultural history into her dance classes, has taught and performed in many countries, and is a polyglot. She’s happy to do an occasional private or group lesson in her home studio. She’s smart, fun, and a gifted teacher. 

Favorite Clubs:
-Araf, around the corner from Nevizade Sokak,. Tuesdays nights are great, when the amazing Selim Sesler plays gypsy music on clarinet. Get there by 10:30pm.
-Melek, on Imam Adnan Sokak, 3rd right after Taksim. Jazz Bazz (Romany) is highly recommended on Wednesday nights. Around 11pm start till 3am. Thursday nights, RomanistLatino plays and they are a Balkan/Latin fusion.
-The Hall, below Emek and Sinepop Cinema, club that was an Armenian Church from 1876. Cooler for the space than the music.

-Little Wing, across from the famous Babylon Club (300 seat performance space for big names) in Tunel area. This place feels like a cozy living room.  The live music consists of mostly Spanish music sung by spirited Turks, with some French, Italian, and American covers thrown in. Audience participation is encouraged. No cover charge. Reasonably priced drinks and food. Friday and Saturday nights starting around 10:30pm. Address: Asmalemescit Neighborhood of Tunel, Sehbender Sokak No:6
-http://www.afrolatindans.com/ (in Turkish, for salsa lovers)
-Mundo Latino 0212-244-6359; Istiklal, Galatasary Is Hani No. 230, Kat 2

Highly Recommended Documentary on the Turkish Music Scene (you can buy it here on DVD; there are a lot of pirate movie shops too):
"Crossing the Bridge: The sound of Istanbul" by Fatih Akin
An engaging, well-done documentary about modern-day music in Istanbul by a famous German-Turkish director. Musicians include: Ceza, a Turkish rapper, beloved Turkish musicians such as Orhan Gencebay, Sezen Aksu, Muzeyyen Senar, a Kurdish woman signing in a hamam (Aynur), Sufi Music by Mercan Dede, Selim Sesler (gypsy musician on clarinet), and rock/alternative: Baba Zula, Orient Expression, and Duman.
- International Istanbul Film Festival (April 5 to April 20). Wonderful quality.


Favorite Movie Theatre:
There are tons of movie theatres along Istiklal (and in the malls). In general, they plan foreign films with original sound and Turkish subtitles. You can also easily buy DVDs, including many which are pirated for 4-5 YTL. Here’s a description of our favorite movie theare, an artsy, indy.
-Yeşilşam
You go in through a crummy street door in a mediocre building, and you might even miss the perfunctory sign indicating that there’s a cinema there. But as you descend the stairs, you suddenly find yourself in what resembles a Jan Svankmaier set as you enter a room full of character and lush colors, totally covered with nostalgic posters and photos from the golden age of Turkish cinema. You feel like you’re in a private film club that’s been set up just for you and a select group of people. And when you proceed into the theater through a velvet curtain, it’s as if you and your friends are sharing an intimate gathering in someone’s living room. You get the urge to strike up conversations and discuss the movie with those next to you. The seats are essentially wooden, the carpets are weathered, the screen and projector are old, but it’s all so fun. Plus they only show good movies – or, in the words of the proprietor: “Movies that leave you feeling enriched after having seen them.” Here’s a little tip: Look up the semi-circular stairwell after having entered the main building, just before you descend the stairs leading to the cinema. Tickets: 8 YTL (0212) 293 68 00 Imam Adnan Sokak 10 (3rd right off Istiklal Caddesi as you’re coming from Taksim).

Favorite Guides:
Alper Ertubey, founder and owner of Hike and Sail (www.hikeandsail.com; alper at hikeandsail.com) and phone is 0532-264-0429. Our friend. A genuinely nice guy who is passionate about Turkey and incredibly knowledgeable and well traveled (particularly of the Adventure Travel kind).

Kathy often hosts expat groups. You can contact her at 0536-884-9226 or bhaklava at hotmail.com. She does very interesting walking tours and knows her way in and out of the grand bazaar. Ask her about her walk through underground Istanbul, including its buried palaces and ayazmas (holy springs).

Reading

FICTION
1. Bastard of Istanbul by Elif Shafak, 2007.
Shafak is probably the 2nd most well known novelist in Turkey after Nobel Prize winning Orhan Pamuk. Bastard is the first known Turkish novel to address the Armenian issue in the modern Turkish republic’s consciousness. This is thought to be her best book (at age 37 she’s already published 6 novels), and the reading is very accessible--deceptively light at times, sometimes superficial. As much as place can be a character in a book, Istanbul is one of Bastard’s protagonists.

Shafak has a PhD in political sciences, was a diplomat kid of single mother, spent half of her childhood away from Turkey, and now divides her time between Istanbul and Arizona, where she’s a professor of women’s studies. She wrote this novel in English and had it translated into Turkish. In Sept 2006, she participated in Turko-Armenian Conference in Istanbul looking at the massacres and Turkish response; supported by Prime Minister Erdoğan. She joins a roster of more than 60 writers and journalists to be charged under Article 301 of the Turkish criminal code since its introduction last year (also under Erdoğan). University professors, journalists and novelists have been charged under legislation drawn so broadly as to criminalize a wide range of critical opinions. Writers not only faced the prospect of a three-year jail term, but the prosecutions also lay them open to a campaign of intimidation and harassment waged by rightwing agitators. Shafak was acquitted, but now must travel through Turkey with a bodyguard.

2. Birds Without Wings, by Louis de Bernieres, 2004.
In his first novel since Corelli’s Mandolin, de Bernières “creates a world, populates it with characters as real as our best friends, and launches it into the maelstrom of twentieth-century history. The setting is a small village in southwestern Anatolia in the waning years of the Ottoman Empire. Everyone there speaks Turkish, though they write it in Greek letters. It’s a place that has room for a professional blasphemer; where a brokenhearted aga finds solace in the arms of a Circassian courtesan who isn’t Circassian at all; where a beautiful Christian girl named Philothei is engaged to a Muslim boy named Ibrahim. But all of this will change when Turkey enters the modern world.” (from back cover). This nearly 600 page historical novel set in a town near modern-day Fethiye tells the story of a village and its inhabitants from multiple points of view, including the interwoven biography of Kemal Ataturk. It’s not an easy read, but is incredibly well done, and becomes deeply engaging after the first couple hundred pages.

3. Orhan Pamuk’s book: Snow and My Name is Red; Black Book is considered his most literary book for literature profs; Istanbul (his memoir of the city) is too melancholic and self-referential for my taste. Despite having won the Nobel Prize for Literature, most Turks I’ve spoken to either find his writing too complex and obtuse or don’t like the guy. He is not an easy read, though he’s supposed to be easier in English than in Turkish. I really liked Snow (set in modern times) and My Name is Red (historical novel about painters--miniaturists). In both novels, the conflicts between Islam and secularism are acutely felt.

NOT YET READ BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO ME:
4. Yashar Kemal (Kurdish writer, most famous work is Mehmed, My Hawk). I haven’t read him yet and I’ve heard mixed reviews, but it is a classic. He’s also been nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature.

5. The Janissary Tree by Jason Goodwin, 2006. A thriller/murder mystery set in 19th Century Istanbul. After they grew too powerful, the Janissaries, an elite palace guard and the soul of the Empire, were crushed by the Ottoman sultan in 1826. Ten years later they seem to be reemerging, vengeful and dangerous. First, a harem girl is found strangled. Then, men in the sultan’s new guard are horribly murdered. The clever eunuch, Yashim, uses his wit and wile to investigate. Stephen Hoye is energetic when interpreting the assortment of eccentric characters, but his overall narration doesn’t balance the well-researched historical mystery. When not doing character voices, Hoyes’ reading is frequently flat, humorless, even ominous when situations don’t call for menace. Still, Goodwin offers a vivid conjuring of Turkey and, in Yashim, an original addition to the annals of sleuthing. (the above from its Amazon.com description). This book has been recommended to me by 3 smart readers, though I don’t have personal experience with it.

NONFICTION
1. Tales from the Expat Harem: Foreign Women in Modern Turkey, edited by Anastasia Ashman and Jennifer Gokmen, 2006 (both in Turkish and English). Expat women (mostly Americans) who’ve deeply engaged with Turkey (and often married into the culture) share interesting stories of their experiences. Pleasant reading, good for the beach or a boat, with deep insight into the core of Turkishness. Some of the writers and the two editors are in my writing group. A richer, more in-depth and insightful version of Travelers Tales Turkey (if you like travelogue, I also recommend this book edited by James Viller).

2. Crescent and Star: Turkey Between Two Worlds, edited by Stephen Kinzer, 2001.
Interspersing journalistic essays with personal vignettes, Kinzer (former NYT Bureau Chief 1996-2000) discusses Turkey's potential to be a world leader in the 21st century, as it is truly a bridge between East and West, politically and geographically. Kinzer questions Turkey's ability to achieve this potential, however, unless true democracy can be established. Whether it can depends on Turkey's military, which, in order to ensure the continuation of the Kemalist ideal of a paternalistic state, has never allowed real freedom of speech, press, or assembly. Kinzer argues persuasively that if the military refuses this opportunity, the consequences (Islamic fundamentalism, Kurdish terrorism, denial of EU membership) could be catastrophic for the Turkish state and its people. Kinzer is one of my favorite writers. He makes history and politics accessible, intriguing, and essential.

COOKBOOKS
1.Turquoise: A Chef’s Travels in Turkey by Greg and Lucy Malouf (Australia, 2008). I haven’t seen it yet, but it’s reportedly beautiful, with delicious recipes and much cultural information.

2.Recipes from the Silk Road: a Vegetarian Journey by Najmieh Batmanglij, 2004. One of my all-time favorite cookbooks by a brilliant, ethnographic Iranian-American chef and publisher who traveled the Silk Road to revise these classic recipes. From the New York Times: “Recipes from the Silk Road is like a good novel once you start, it's hard to put down. It is ideal for those who like to read cookbooks as much as cook from them....The recipes also pack a punch. I served Levantine pilaf in pastry at a party and felt a genuine thrill as I cut into the golden dome of phylo encasing a filling of vermicelli and rice flecked with apricots, almonds and raisins and seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom and rosewater…” 

 

3. Binnur’s Turkish Cookbook website: www.turkishcookbook.com. I’ve found this to be a handy, online resource with good recipes and explanations.

GUIDEBOOKS
1.Lonely Planet Turkey (2007) is excellent, though I haven’t compared it head to head with the others.
2.In Turkey, you can buy the following books which may be helpful if you have a longer time to travel: 101 Must-See Places in Turkey by Saffet Emre Tonguç and Fatih Türkmenoğlu and the Small Hotel Book of Turkey by Mujde Nisanyan.

NEWSPAPERS, MAGAZINES, WEBSITES
1. Today’s Zaman (more conservative ownership but better writing) and Turkish Daily News are the biggest English-language papers in Turkey (also accessible on the web).

2. Time Out Istanbul is published monthly in Turkish and English and gives an interesting, edgy expat perspective to the city.

3. Waving Goodbye to Hegemony, a New York Times Magazine article on January 27, 2008 by Parag Khanna. A brilliant piece summarizing Khanna’s new book (March 2008), The Second World: Empires and Influences in the New Global Order. Khanna identifies Turkey as a part of the emerging “2nd world.” You can access his article on the NYT website or read the entire book.

4. Bianet is a useful Turkish news website by those committed to safeguarding independent journalism.

5. Mymerhaba.com has a lot of recommendations by expats who have lived in Turkey and has some useful reviews of subjects like cheese, pastries, fishing restaurants.

6. For expats, expatinturkey.com is a useful listserve advice column.

 

In general, Turks are honest and helpful people. But in tourist areas and with some taxi drivers, beware.

Scam #1: Shoe shiners. A shoe shiner will walk past you and you notice that one of his brushes falls to the ground. You stop to get his attention. He feels so indebted to you that he wants to give you a shoe shine for free. No, no, no, not necessary you say. But he does it anyway, then telling you a sob story of how his kid or mother is in the hospital and he has no money. He expects a 5 YTL tip. Don't fall for it!

 

Scam #2: Taxis. During the day, the meter should start at 2 YTL and say gündüz. After midnight, it starts at around 3 YTL and says Gece (significantly more expensive). From the airport to Sultanahmet should be around 25 YTL (you can take the metro and tram there too). Though the rate is by meter, you can always ask your cabbie approximately how expensive a ride should be. Don't let him take the long route or drive you around the block. Sultanahmet to Taksim should be no more than 10 YTL with traffic before midnight.

 

Scam #3: Restaurants. Make sure to look at the menu before you order and then carefully examine the bill at the end. 10% service is often included, so no need to tip extra unless the service is extraordinary. Also, make sure the numbers add up. I've caught restaurant "errors" several times now. Make sure you get the right change back too.

 

 

IYI YOLCULUKLAR! (Happy Travels) and Norooz Pirooz, Nassim

 

Yeni yılınız kutlu olsun from Istanbul!

 

Newlywed in Istanbul
December 14, 2007

When the fog disappears, we can see 13 minarets of Old Istanbul (Sultanahmet) from our top floor apartment across the Golden Horn, including some of her prized jewels: Topkapı Palace, Aya Sofya, and the Blue Mosque. From our relatively newer European neighborhood of Beşiktaş, we spy Taksim Square, several tall hotels, and the 19th century Imperial-styled Dolmabahçe Palace still guarded by statuesque soldiers, where Atatürk (father of the Turkish republic) died almost 70 years ago. Before us, the Sea of Marmara, the Princes’ Islands, and the mountains of Bursa. The 32km-long Bosphorous Strait, which divides Europe and Asia and connects the Black and Marmara Seas, is to our left with views of the Asian neighborhood of Üsküdar.

Upon hearing my first ezan from our apartment, I marveled at the sophistication and artistry of this city that would call its pious to prayer in harmony--until Miguel pointed out that we were actually hearing several ezans in stereo from three surrounding mosques. A yet to be located church bell announces itself occasionally on the hour.

A couple days after our emigration, we had a quiet Thanksgiving dinner of fresh calamari and hominy bread while the oil cargoes, shipping containers, fishing boats, passenger ferries, marine police, and the occasional cruise ship passed by us. Miguel, who is mesmerized by the sea and has already learned the Turkish names for all the fish in season, says our view is “better than TV.” The following Saturday night, we were invited to our first party, hosted by Christy, originally from Seattle who has lived in various countries of the former Soviet bloc over the last decade (I met her virtually through her edgy Istanbul blog; see carpetblog.typepad.com). There, I ran into a British friend from Afghanistan days, and we enjoyed meeting a whole host of expats in Istanbul plus some interesting Turkish poets and playwrights.

We have yet to visit any historical monuments or museums in the three weeks since arrival for we have been consumed by activities of daily living no longer mundane in a foreign context: setting up utilities; furnishing the apartment; finding the local markets, bakeries, and butcher shops; visiting gyms and running paths along the Bosphorous; and signing up for Turkish class. Upon arrival, we were charged with the formidable task of turning on our utilities without the prerequisite resident permits. Every step of progress—from opening a Turkish bank account, to getting a Turkish Tax ID number, finding Turkish cell phone service, ordering drinking water delivered to our door, figuring out how to recycle, and passing a natural gas inspection—felt like a major victory. We felt great pride and joy at finding things on our own—getting to Ikea via public transport, accessing wireless internet at a wonderful local café called Ceviz (which means walnut), spotting our favorite waiter cum actor on a local TV nighttime drama, making a trip to a local hamam, and visiting the city’s organic market.

Istanbul is a huge city—between 10 and 15 million depending on what source you consult—bound by water on all sides, so it faces traffic problems akin to Seattle’s, only exponentially worse. The Asian side is now considered a part of Istanbul ever since the grand Bosphorous suspension bridge--one of the largest in the world-- was built in 1973, complete with nighttime lights of changing colors. Asian Istanbul is therefore much more rationally planned and easier to navigate than the old fishing villages with haphazard architecture often connected by hilly, narrow, sometimes even cobble-stoned streets that make up much of the European side.

The most jarring aspects of living here for us are: the unabashed, prevalent smoking (except for on public transportation), the pollution (city grime which rolls off the skin like eraser marks when hamam scrubbed), the maniacal drivers who navigate the city as if it were a videogame with a high speed chase where hitting a pedestrian wouldn’t make you lose too many points, and the terrible traffic (almost as bad as Tehran’s). And yet, there is so much to love about living here: the distinct, village character of each of its neighborhoods, countless historical landmarks that appear where you least expect them, the genuine hospitality of the Turks (ever-ready to help you when you’re in trouble or look lost), the sumptuous and varied cuisine (written up by The New York Times in a recent article by Matt Gross and blogged about by locals; see cafefernando.com), the markets, the palaces, the Ottoman-styled mosques, the water which makes you feel like you’re just a bridge or boat away to everywhere, the unspoken tolerance for varied appearances, religiosity, and opinions, and the value of art (for every Turkish engineer also seems to be a poet or musician).

For me, Istanbul is the perfect fusion between East and West--with all the familiarities of an idealized Middle Eastern home without the constraints of having to behave or dress in a certain way. Turkey is also between Spain and Iran, a third country that Miguel and I can discover together as newlyweds, equally clueless about its language and history. We had a tiny, spontaneous, homegrown ceremony consisting of one sibling and 5 friend-witnesses each in Miguel’s newly reconstructed home. See my website for a couple photos: nassimassefi.com/bio.aspx (and scroll down). We had planned a big wedding party in the coming year in Spain or Turkey, and this little celebration in Seattle was supposed to be a slight jazzing up of a process dominated by official paperwork. But it turned out to be so meaningful and fun that we are reconsidering the need to have another wedding at all.

Istanbul is one of the most inspiring places on earth to create. I’ve been diligently working on my second novel, Say I Am You, here, hardly touched since an absorbing book publicity campaign and tour that began in April. Despite my efforts, book sales have been relatively modest, and paperback Aria scheduled to be released in June has been indefinitely postponed. Hopefully the Dutch, Portuguese, Slovenian, and Chinese versions will fare better, and the Persian edition will make it through the censorship of the Ministry of Islamic Guidance. Meanwhile, if you were stumped for Christmas present ideas, want to learn how your book buying can be linked to my donations to non-profits, or have a real live author to call into your book group, please go to my website’s book section: nassimassefi.com/books.aspx

As I compose this missive, it occurs to me how much less colorful and exciting is the life of a writer bound to her desk compared to that of a humanitarian or doctor who is constantly encountering people in crisis outside of her own socioeconomic group and local environs. Then there is the relative ease of moving to a foreign land as a couple rather than a single woman, which decreases the humorous anecdotes fueled by vulnerability and the appeal of nightlife. Though we cringe at the Western types of consumption available here--Starbucks on every major street, 7-11s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut, Domino’s Pizza, and McDonald’s offering deliveries via motorcycle in our neighborhood, including the McTurka!--I confess that I am more likely to find a winter coat here in one of the fancy malls than at the Grand Bazaar. Despite the fact that Miguel and I are clearly more attracted to the exotic Eastern features of the city, we admit that it’s not that different from living in a European city. There is a level of societal organization here that feels worlds away from a developing country—reliable trash pickups and litter-free streets; well-fed dogs and cats that hang out in parks and bother no one; vaccinations care of the city (marked by ear tags); sushi restaurants; the availability of good chocolate, wine, beer, and coffee; nice movie houses with art films, plush velvet seats, and popcorn; good public transportation and yellow taxis with clearly marked meters. We are not exactly roughing it here, dodging suicide bombs, begging for care packages from Trader Joe’s, or saving any lives (except possibly our own…from American workaholism). Though it may mean less newsworthy communiqués, I welcome the new calm and contentedness in my mid-thirties. Once my Turkish is functionally fluent, I’d like to restart part-time medical work. In the meanwhile, I’m content to live as a writer, learning as much as I can about this fascinating country while enjoying the relaxed pace of newfound domestic bliss.

Aside from Turkish classes, I have joined an international women’s writing group (who playfully call themselves the Expat Harem and published a marvelous book under that name; see expatharem.com), organized a book club starting with Elif Shafak’s Bastard of Istanbul (highly recommended for its vivid depiction of Istanbullu life and complex reverberations of the Armenian massacres of 1915 for Turkish, Armenian, and American characters), started belly dancing classes with Özlem Dilsu (see ozlemidilsu.com), and have an invitation to a Christmas party with Spanish tapas and live Cuban music.

I wish you a happy, healthy December with all of its culturally and religiously diverse holidays (here we celebrate Kurban Bayram or Festival of the Sacrifice), and a vibrant 2008.

 

September 7, 2007

On the plane again, just can’t wait to get on the plane again… After returning from a marvelous month on the sea, on the Northern Coast of Spain, I’m flying again. This time, I’m going to a conference for doctor-writers in Virginia. I’ve been pondering the fusion of these two disciplines lately and this conference is my second one this year with this target audience in mind. The genre of narrative medicine or literary medicine is exploding these days. Dr. Rita Charon of Columbia University, one of the pioneers in the field, describes it as “the narrative competence to recognize, absorb, metabolize, interpret, and be moved by the stories of illness.” Many medical schools now offer elective courses on lit med. It is believed that health care providers can improve the effectiveness of their care through this type of writing, by developing the capacity for attention, reflection, representation, self-care, and affiliation with patients and colleagues. My favorite narrative medicine writers are: Atul Gawande, Audrey Young, Emily Transue, Manoj Jain, Alok Khorana, Darshak Sanghavi, Rick Boyte, Eliza Lo Chin, and Pauline Chen.

I tend not to write much about patient care, nor for the record do I watch medical-oriented TV shows. My refugee women patients’ struggles inspired Aria and occasionally I meet an interesting character in the clinic who later appears in another incarnation in something I write. Lately though, my dual identity as physician and writer has been applied to sharpening my diagnostic skills as a book recommender.

It all started with Nancy Pearl, librarian (with her own action figure that says “Shhh...”), bibliophile extraordinaire (author of Book Lust and others), and NPR book commentator. She says, “A good book is any book that you love.” What a revelation! A paradigm shift. Goodbye book reviews, scholarly merit, and lit crit. I am frequently asked about books that I love. There are so many that I can barely keep track of them and have taken to building lists on my website.

I have marveled at the booksellers and librarians who handpick books for people on the basis of a few questions. They diagnose reading predilection the way I approach mysterious symptoms. I love it when someone who knows me well introduces me to a book that I’ve never heard of and the connection is instantaneous. It’s an even bigger marvel when a near stranger makes a perfect book match for me.

I know that Aria is not for everyone. As much as my fiance loves me, I know he didn’t connect with my novel. Nor do I share his fiction predilections (though we do overlap in nonfiction interests). So, how do I predict who will like Aria? My fan mail tells me that it’s mostly women or immigrants, mothers, bereaved parents, those who have experienced great grief, armchair travelers, health providers, letter writers, Buddhists, and the spiritually intelligent. I have yet to hear from a person of very short stature, but I am hoping the membership of Little People of America will also appreciate Aria. If you happen to be a fan and fall outside of these categories, please let me know!

While in Spain, offline and without tourist aspirations, I had the luxury of reading for pleasure and writing without interruption. I read three books by people I had met, and I devoured them all. I list them here with my attempt to predict their biggest fans.

Real Food by Nina Planck: self-described nutrition geek meets farmer girl. Sassy and skeptical of conventional scientific wisdom, Planck deeply explores the studies linking meat and dairy to unhealthy outcomes and finds that industrialized, processed foods are the culprit, not traditional animal products. As a pescatarian for the last 16 years (lacto-ovo vegetarian plus fish) and critical reader of the medical literature, I was so convinced by her synthesis that I have begun eating meat again and even drink raw milk despite the infectious disease risks. I recommend this book for cooks, non-animal rights-based vegetarians, those who are concerned about what to feed their children, those who like Michael Pollan’s books (I liked this even better than Omnivore’s Dilemma), and lovers of food who have given up favorite items due to health risks.

Owl Island by Randy Sue Coburn: a romance novel set in the Pacific Northwest with an IQ of 150. I haven’t read romance novels since the 7th grade, and am not one of those people who chooses light, entertaining books to read on the beach or relax (though I did read Melissa Banks’ Girls Guide to Fishing and Hunting and Bridget Jones’ Diary by Helen Fielding and was surprised to have enjoyed both). I tend to be high maintenance and picky about what I read. I now follow Nancy Pearl’s rule about giving a book a 50-page chance and then moving on. Owl Island engaged me for a full day. I could not put it down. Filmmaking, Paris, fishnets (not stockings), and techie gamers all weave themselves into this novel focusing on the lives of 3 generation of smart, interesting, plucky women and the men who love them.

What’s Written on the Body by Peter Pereira: a playful, clever, and poignant book of poetry by a family physician in the Seattle area. If you like poetry and enjoy anagrams, Scrabble, NPR’s Wordplay, Billy Collins’ poems, gardening, medical reflections, or light-hearted banter, you will love this book. Though I now give away most of my books due to an impending move to Istanbul this November, I will hold on to What’s Written on the Body. It’s perfect for before-dinner recitation or mischievous flirtation.

I’m now reading a fascinating biography of Gertrude Bell by Georgina Howell and hope to read more of it on the next planes and trains I will be taking for East Coast book tour (September 26-October 16). If you live in Boston, Connecticut, New York, or DC, or have friends in those places, check out my webpage for my book tour schedule.

If you have any Istanbul recommendations for me, literary or literal, please let me know. It won’t be long before I’m on a plane again.

Your faithful book doctor, Nassim

 

Footnotes from the Book Tour: Part I
June 23, 2007

"A book tour is the author's punishment for writing a book." --Heard recently on the NPR Quiz Show with Michael Feldman, Whad'ya Know?

Yours truly is back from part I of her book tour--the West Coast, with readings and talks in LA aka Tehrangeles, the Bay Area, Portland, and Seattle--and taking a breather before visiting the East Coast in late September/early October. Many of you have asked me: How was it? More than a few writers I know have told me in hushed tones that they secretly subscribe to Michael Feldman's point of view. Dear reader, I won't lie to you. Taking your book on the road can be exhausting. I felt like I was constantly performing, exploring the limits of my extroversion (even for a warm-blooded social animal like me), and selling myself (an antithetical experience to the solitude of writing the novel).

For the most part though, book tour was incredibly fun. The launch was at my favorite independent bookstore on earth, the Elliott Bay Book Company in Seattle. Over 200 people attended and the bookstore sold out of my book! Aria is actually a bestseller (#6 in fiction) at Elliott Bay--it may be the first and last time it's on a top ten list. My mother, who laments the fact that I’m going to have a small wedding, prepared an amazing Persian feast that night in lieu of the “book shower” she was planning to organize for me. I’ve been working on my joke repertoire at these events as a book about the death of the child can be a downer, and I was thrilled that audience members actually laughed aloud. People have come to these readings from all corners of my life—from childhood neighbors to high school classmates (I graduated 20 years ago), men I dated long ago to new women writing friends, long-lost family members to colleagues, former patients of mine to a chance acquaintances from foreign travels, and a posse of faithful friends (many of whom have attended more than one event). Surprise reunions have been one of the highlights of the book tour for me.

It’s been moving to see how my book has affected readers. I love getting letters from people who’ve been impacted by my little novel. At one reading where I didn’t have many friends in the area, I actually asked audience members why they had come to my reading. The responses were fascinating—there were non-Iranians who'd lived in Iran in pre-Revolutionary days, bereaved parents, high school and community college kids who were getting extra credit from their English professors for attending, arm-chair travelers, future doctors, and the random people who happened to be walking by the store (including a San Diego woman whose marvelous Soltan Banoo restaurant I later ended up visiting with my publishing colleagues) among others.

To share your book with the world when you have worked on it for so many years in private is both scary and a huge delight. It’s a relinquishing of sorts too. What has felt most important to me lately is the opportunity to speak about Iran in human terms during these fragile times. Aria is an apolitical book. Unlike many other books published by Iranian-Americans, it does not demonize the Islamic Republic, nor does it yearn for pre-Revolutionary times. It’s simply the story of an Iranian-American woman and her family as they cope with universal losses. Jasmine, the protagonist, actually fears Iran and confrontation with her parents who’ve cut off contact with her ever since she had a kid out of wedlock. Returning to Iran and reconciling her past turn out to be key elements of her healing process after the death of her child, even if she doesn’t exactly relate to the Islamic rituals around death.

My book recommendations for this month similarly humanize Iran and Islamic history.
Fiction: Check out Anita Amirrezvani’s The Blood of Flowers, a novel set in 17th century Isfahan and told from the perspective of a nameless teenage girl who falls in love with carpet-weaving.
Non-fiction: Read Reza Aslan’s No god but God: The Origins, Evolution, and Future of Islam, a highly digestible historical perspective on Islam through modern times.

Don’t be a stranger. Feel free to get in touch with me anytime. In the next week, you will be able to access video and audio clips from readings and lectures I’ve given, plus TV and radio interviews. Plus, you can see what I will be reading this summer.

For those of you who choose Aria for your book club, I will try my best to call in to your discussion (travel plans and time zones permitting). I will be in Spain and offline in July.

Hasta luego. Happy reading and happy summer, Nassim

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

My First Ever Blog
April 11, 2007

Dear Readers and Friends,
So begins my foray into the blogging world. To be honest, though I express myself best in the written form, I've resisted invitations to blog in the past. I've occasionally sent out missives from the road to friends and family who wanted a taste of the medical humanitarian aid world in "post-conflict" countries or passionate percussion on forbidden islands. I'm shy about going public, though, I'm the type of person who would never consider writing a memoir, but I've been told I have to overcome this resistance because...my first novel is about to be published!

This novel, Aria, is the result of a 10-year gestation. Here is the story:
In 1996, I was trapped alone in a monsoon in Yogyakarta, Indonesia. My best friend and travel companion had departed the day before. I had run out of books to read and had already written my postcards. I was a 23-year-old medical student on holiday, a privileged Iranian-American unacquainted with suffering. As I waited for the rains to end, I had little else to do but sit with myself. The spiritually perplexing issues posed to me by my patients with unimaginably difficult lives percolated through my mind. I realized I was woefully unprepared for making sense of the maelstrom of sickness and dying that I was witnessing in the clinical setting. I began to write. A novel was born, the story of how great loss might manifest in the context of a comfortable US life. I had seen grief take a variety of forms in different parts of the world. This seemed worthy of further exploration. I kept writing after my return from Indonesia, stealing quiet moments in the interstices of medical work. Finally, in January of 2006, I was blessed to find a wonderful agent who sold the book (then entitled The Blood of Pomegranates) almost immediately. Publication has been a lesson in delayed gratification and patience, but it's also incredibly exciting. This "baby" of mine is about to be released into the world! She no longer lives in my head, and your responses to her will inject all kinds of new energy and perspective into my creative process.

Check out the Events & News page on this website for details on my book tour (up and down the West Coast of the US in May, to the East Coast in September-October). Though I expect to greet mostly friends and family members on tour, I would be thrilled to meet you, unknown reader. Or, if you can't make it to a reading, please consider writing to me about your Aria experience.

In the meanwhile, I leave you with blog recommendation of the month and a couple recent favorite reads:
-Check out Global Adventure Diva, Holly Morris' news and views, at Divawire
-Favorite novel of the month: Jenna Blum's marvelous Those Who Save Us
-Favorite nonfiction read of the month: Stephen Kinzer's All the Shah's Men: An American Coup and the Roots of Middle East Terror

Happy reading and happy spring, Nassim